What I’ve Learned in Copenhagen: My Experiences
Chef Jonathan Tam moved from Canada to Copenhagen in 2007 to work at the world-famous Michelin-starred restaurant Noma under René Redzepi. He now runs his own restaurant, Jatak. Here he talks about his experiences in the Danish capital
The Inspiration
Copenhagen keeps me curious and always looking ahead. Here, we push forward both Michelin-starred gastronomy and high-end design – and we’re never satisfied. However, the pursuit of perfection isn’t as relentless here as it is in other major cities, where you can quickly get left behind if you can’t keep up. Copenhagen allows you to live at your own pace.
The People
In my restaurant, we have a team of twelve people from nine different cultural backgrounds. And that’s not an issue in Copenhagen – quite the opposite: people here are incredibly welcoming. What helps is that everyone speaks excellent English, so there are no language barriers. That said, it does take some time to understand the culture and humor of the Danes – they’re initially quite reserved. But they’re also very interested in your background and your story, which reminds me of my home in Canada. I find this openness both important and beautiful.
The Food
When I first moved to Copenhagen, the dining scene was essentially limited to classic French restaurants or fast food – there wasn’t much in between. Nordic cuisine was still in its infancy, with only a few restaurants making waves. Since then, so much has changed – especially in terms of available products. It used to be nearly impossible to find a good organic tomato, but now small farms and growers are thriving, cultivating as many as 15 different tomato varieties. In the city, I love shopping at farmers' markets, where you can even find Asian herbs, rare Japanese vegetables, or Korean melons, all locally grown.
The Essence
There’s so much to discover in Copenhagen – and it doesn’t require much effort. Everything is so well thought out, making it wonderfully easy to get around. You can reach practically everything by bike. That said, it’s also exciting to explore the city on foot, taking time to admire its understated beauty. The Danes have a timeless and sustainable approach to design, architecture, and urban planning. They also find great joy in surrounding themselves with beautiful things. I know many colleagues who get incredibly excited about finding the perfect chairs for their restaurants.
For Friends
I recommend starting your day with a great coffee because Copenhagen has excellent cafés and roasteries. One of my favorites is Prolog, located in the former meatpacking district, Kødbyen. Try the filter coffee to really savor the beans! Pair it with a small pastry. You’ll find good bakeries with their own unique styles in almost every neighborhood. Here are a few I particularly love: Juno the Bakery, Københavns Bageri, and Hart Bageri.
On a sunny day, be sure to visit the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, about an hour north of Copenhagen by train. It might sound surprising at first, but the museum is made up of several buildings right by the sea with a beautiful garden. The art inspires, the park provides relaxation – a perfect combination. Another (and more obvious) idea for a family outing is the Tivoli Gardens, where I love strolling with my daughter in any season.
For a lovely lunch, I recommend Palægade, where I enjoy the typical Danish smørrebrød – delicious open-faced sandwiches on whole-grain bread. Pair it with a malt beer, and to finish, treat yourself to a schnapps. Speaking of drinks, the bar where I often spend a nice evening with my team is called Bird. Be sure to try their various Negroni variations!
About
Jonathan Tam has Cantonese and Vietnamese roots. In his Michelin-starred restaurant Jatak, he serves modern cuisine crafted from exquisite local ingredients with strong Asian influences.
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