Malte Half, wearing a white shirt and a brown apron, leans against a white wall

What I've Learned in Dublin: My Experiences

Malte Half, head chef at the vegetarian fine dining restaurant Glas, moved from Berlin to Dublin more than 20 years ago. He quickly recovered from the initial culture shock – thanks in part to the Irish people being so open and warmhearted

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4 min read
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The New

When I moved from Berlin to Dublin in 2004, the city felt like a village to me – with its narrow lanes and closely packed houses. I was 21 and longed to be back in a big city. Irish English was hard for me to understand – partly because every neighborhood in Dublin has its own dialect. That's also true for the entire country. But now I can tell where someone is from by their accent.

The People

It was an unforgettable experience for me to be welcomed with open arms as a young person in Dublin. The Irish are very friendly and warmhearted – nothing like the more reserved Germans. They try to integrate you right away, laugh a lot, and ask plenty of questions. You're constantly being drawn into short conversations – whether you're standing in line at the supermarket or sitting at the bar in a pub. I always end up having long chats with taxi drivers in particular.

Malte Half plating food in a restaurant kitchen in Dublin
Creative creations: Malte Half from Berlin is head chef at the fine-dining restaurant Glas in the center of Dublin (© Glas Restaurant/Traffic Media; header image © Dora Kazmierak)
Tall ship docked beside modern buildings, with kayakers nearby, on a sunny day in Dublin
The replica of the Jeanie Johnston commemorates the many Irish families who emigrated to North America in the mid 19th century (© Getty Images)
Exterior view of The Brazen Head, Ireland's oldest pub, with signage, benches, and barrels
Ireland's oldest pub: Jonathan Swift, the author of "Gulliver's Travels," sat at the bar in The Brazen Head, which dates back to 1189 (© Alamy)
"People in Dublin love to experiment with new ideas – it's infectious and inspires me to try out new things in the kitchen."
Malte Half

The Inspiration

People in Dublin love to experiment with new ideas – it's infectious and inspires me to try out new things in the kitchen. Food trends pop up all the time, and new restaurants open constantly. This open atmosphere keeps giving me creative energy. That goes for the culture too: for example, whenever I walk down Grafton Street – which is known around the world for its excellent street musicians – I immediately feel uplifted.

The Metamorphosis

Since I moved here, Dublin has changed a lot. The modern glass buildings in the Docklands didn't exist back then – today, they make the city feel far less like a village. Over the years, Dublin has also become more multicultural. Many people from Spain, Croatia, South America, and other parts of the world have moved here and brought their cultures with them. That has enriched the restaurant scene as well – which is very inspiring for me as a chef.

For Friends

When friends come to visit, I always tell them to soak up Dublin's pub culture – after all, the city is full of pubs steeped in history. Jonathan Swift, author of "Gulliver's Travels," once sat at the bar of The Brazen Head, Ireland's oldest pub, established in 1189, and James Joyce was a regular at Davy Byrnes.

In stark contrast are the Docklands. In Dublin's newly redeveloped harbor district, futuristic glass buildings dominate the skyline – tech giants like Facebook and Airbnb have their European headquarters here.

The harbor is also home to a replica of the famous tall ship the Jeanie Johnston – commemorating the many Irish families who fled the famine in the mid 19th century and set sail for North America. Anyone interested in learning more should definitely visit The Irish Emigration Museum.

As a fan of theater and music, I also always send friends to The Gaiety Theatre – and, of course, to the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre by architect Daniel Libeskind – a spectacular glass building that guarantees an entertaining night out with musicals, comedians, and more.

About

As head chef at the fine dining restaurant Glas, Malte Half is known for his imaginative vegetarian and vegan creations, which feature ingredients like wild Irish herbs and seaweed. The German native has been living and cooking in Dublin since 2004. There's just one thing he still wishes for: more vegetarian restaurants.

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