In My Hood: Out and About in Metaxourgeio, Athens

Metaxourgeio is a livable and lovable neighborhood, partly because artists from all over the world have their homes here. We are more friends than just neighbors. Although Metaxourgeio (pronounced "Meh-tah-ksou-ree-yo") is sometimes a bit rougher than other areas of Athens, I feel safe and comfortable. When I walk out of the front door on the right, I'm in Athens' red light district. On the left, a great alternative scene and a varied nightlife with restaurants, bars, and live music have developed in recent years. This has gone hand in hand with gentrification, and many locals can no longer afford to live here.

The day in Metaxourgeio starts for me with a handful of mulberry leaves. Not for me, but for my silkworms. When they are big enough, they spin a cocoon, which I can harvest after about three months, when the worms have left the cocoon. The production of silk has a long tradition in Metaxourgeio, which is evident in the name: The Greek word "Metaxi" means silk. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the district was an important center for silk production in Greece. I also use silk for my fashion label Acero, where I paint with airbrush, but I use only stock material. 

I like to eat at Seychelles. The restaurant is probably no longer an insider tip, but the Greek soul food is simply great. The square in front is really cozy and beautifully planted. Many of the cafés here have tables outside. 

Just around the corner is the Chinese breakfast restaurant 阿锡早点 (literally "axi-breakfast") with freshly made tofu. For me, this counts more as lunch, but that's just my personal taste. I can also highly recommend the restaurant Οι Φίλοι του Ράφτη (literally, "The Tailor's Friends"). The name says it all, as the owner is a tailor. Not only does he mend the clothes of the whole neighborhood, he also serves delicious Greek specialties. For drinks and good music, I go to the Latraac Skate Café. People skate in the halfpipe during the day and DJs play in the evenings. Or you can find me at Alphaville. You can have a coffee on colorful chairs inside or enjoy a tequila sunrise outside on a warm summer night. 

Fresh food is available every Tuesday at the Laiki farmers' market on Keramikou Street. Be sure to visit! You can also find organic fruit and vegetables at the Bathos Kipos supermarket, which is run by two great guys who also own the vegan restaurant Veganistan. They sell Agios Votanikos kombucha, which friends of mine make themselves. Delicious! 

If you want to immerse yourself in the art scene in Metaxourgeio, you should definitely visit the Municipal Gallery of Athens. The building used to house the neighborhood's silk factory. Fittingly, I myself had a performance there with the artist Kleopatra Tsali, in which we spun a net of silk together. There are also great exhibitions in the Atopos CVC building, an organization dedicated to researching and promoting contemporary visual art. 

I could go on and on about this diverse and inspiring district. Better still, go there yourself and breathe in the spirit of Metaxourgeio.

Fancy a taste of the real Athens? Experience Metaxourgeio like the locals and enjoy Greek street food off the beaten track with a small group tour, bookable via GetYourGuide.

Designer and artist Virginia Francia comes from Italy and has found her adopted home in Athens. She spins silk in Metaxourgeio and runs fashion label Acero. Virginia is always happy to welcome visitors to her showroom; just send an Instagram message to @acero_world shortly beforehand and drop by.