What I’ve Learned in Lisbon: My Experiences

When I came to Portugal in 2011, I didn’t intend to stay long, I was actually on my way to London. But I immediately fell in love with the country and with Lisbon. Not only because of the great weather or the delicious food. It’s more this irresistible atmosphere of melancholy and romance that I feel and absorb when I walk through the streets. For me as a person and as an artist, this atmosphere is unique and inspiring. 

The Portuguese don’t wear their hearts on their sleeves like the Spanish or many South Americans. First they see if you are worth their time. But once you gain their trust, they are loyal friends, or better yet, family. It’s not easy to impress them – they don’t value possessions or appearances here. And even if they are impressed, they don’t show it. Pretty cool. 

I love good, simple food. You can still find it on every corner in Lisbon. And for relatively little money. Food is very important here. When I’m invited to my Portuguese friends’ houses, not only is there a lot of food, but people talk about food almost all the time – something I never knew before. A tip for night owls: If you’re on your way home in the early hours of the morning and you’re hungry, you can get freshly baked bread or croissants from many bakeries that don’t even have a shop. Just follow your nose and have the courage to knock. 

I didn’t know him before, but almost everyone in Lisbon worships Fernando Pessoa, the author of “The Book of Restlessness,” just another melancholic. Overall, the city is very literary and I love going to readings. I learn a lot about the subtleties of the Portuguese language there because I have to ask my friends all the time what the poet has just said or read.  

Almost everyone knows fado by now; the sad music can be heard in many tourist bars in the Bairro Alto. But I prefer the happier pimba music. It is rhythmic, almost forcing you to dance, and the singers tell stories of everyday life.  

A long walk through the Belém district is a must. It’s quite touristy, but also very beautiful. The charming old houses with their tiles, the great little restaurants, the old convent, the proximity to the river – it all makes you feel right at home. A place of inspiration is the Centro Cultural de Belém with its impressive modern architecture that blends in perfectly with the surroundings, the great exhibitions of contemporary art, and the beautiful gardens. When I meet friends in the evening, I like to do so at Largo do Carmo, one of those typical places in the city where everyone gathers around a kiosk. Here, over a snack and a glass of wine or two, we think about where the evening might take us. 

For example, for dinner at Tasca Zebras in Combro Street, where fresh fish is very affordable, and afterward to the Machimbombo Bar for a well-chilled beer and some great music from Africa and Portugal. 

And if there’s still time the next day, we head to the beach. Cascais is beautiful, but unfortunately all too well-known and sometimes overcrowded. We are drawn to the other side of the Tagus, to Praia do Meco or Praia do Rei. 

Francisco Rivas is a painter, visual artist, and motion designer. He has exhibited his works in New York, Mykonos, Antwerp, and Lisbon. He has worked for the Fox TV channel, among others, and has already won countless awards for his work. The Venezuelan has lived in Lisbon since 2011.