In My Hood: Out and About in Østerbro, Copenhagen

For me, Østerbro is the nicest district in Copenhagen. It's a little away from the city center, which makes it a bit more relaxed. In the past, until the 19th century, it wasn't part of Copenhagen's city center at all, but a suburb outside the city walls. It was home to people who could afford to escape the hustle and bustle of the up-and-coming metropolis. 

I grew up in Østerbro where I've been living again with my family and our dog for about ten years now. It has so many advantages: For example, I can be at the harbor in a few minutes by bike. And what's really great about Copenhagen is that you can swim everywhere, the water is so clean. The water in general is what makes Copenhagen so livable. Østerbro is just north of one of the man-made lakes that surround downtown Copenhagen and that everyone loves, whether they come there to jog, picnic or walk the dog. 

When in Østerbro, stroll through Fælledparken  

Speaking of dogs: I take Ozzy, our Collie/Labrador mix, for a walk almost every day in Fælledparken, which is also home to FC Copenhagen's stadium. The team is of course far less successful internationally than Liverpool, Real Madrid & Co - but they are still the Danish record champions with 15 titles. So it's well worth a visit. 

If you're not in the mood for soccer or a park, I recommend a stroll down Nordre Frihavnsgade, which starts just off Fælledparken. This is a very atmospheric shopping street and it is well worth taking your time to explore the many small, independent shops. Keep one word in mind: Hygge, which means coziness in English. When I am in the mood for a coffee, there are many nice cafés nearby. But I swear by Cranks & Coffee, a half-hour bike ride away, because it has everything a dedicated biker like me needs. 

Copenhagen's new restaurant scene 

One of my favorite places in Østerbro is the Italian restaurant Hos Fischer, where you can sit outside in the summer. The menu - delicious antipasti, two homemade pasta dishes and a dessert - is so tasty because the owner, David Fischer, lived and cooked in Rome for years, so he knows exactly what Italian cuisine is all about. He is also the chef for the Danish national soccer team. 

When I'm in the mood for Japanese food, I go to Kappo Ando. One of their specialties is yakitori skewers, which are incomparably delicious, but they also cater to vegetarians. The selection of craft sake is impressive - rumored to be the largest in Scandinavia. For me, Kappo Ando is currently one of the best restaurants in town. 

Discover Copenhagen's museums 

Museum lovers will also be happy in Østerbro - that's a promise! Two museums that not many Copenhagen travelers have discovered are Den Frie and the Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK), Denmark's National Gallery. Den Frie is dedicated to modern art and shows the work of lesser-known but exciting artists - my uncle Hein Heinsen was very active 50 years ago. In the much larger SMK you can follow Denmark's art history over the last 700 years or so. By the way, there is a painting by the painter Christen Købke that shows my street in 1836! 

Finally, a tip if you don't already know: Copenhagen is a cycling city. Leave your car at home, rent a bike and discover how much more pleasant it is to explore a city on two wheels instead of four.

About

Katrine Engberg is Denmark's most internationally successful crime writer. Her novels are set in Copenhagen and have been translated into about 30 languages, including English and German. Her latest novel is called "The Sanctuary". The former ballet dancer, who spent three years in Munich, now lives just 200 meters from her parents' house in Copenhagen's Østerbro district.