What I've Learned in Seoul: My Experiences

The People

The inhabitants of Seoul are very respectful, and they all want things to work – which means that everything really does work. Nobody would think of stealing anything here. The city is so safe that people I know leave their laptop in the café to save their place, and go to another restaurant for lunch for an hour and a half.

It takes a lot of time to build a circle of friends in Seoul. My theory: South Korea has been invaded many times in history, and that's why people here are more cautious and don't get involved with strangers so easily. But if you get over this hurdle, you get to know people who are very warm and welcoming – and who work just as hard as they party. The people are very dynamic, so there is always something going on, day and night.

Nature

I live in the center of Seoul, and just a five-minute walk from my apartment is a small mountain called Namsan. When I need a breather from the city, I hike up there, walk through a forest, and feel like I'm in the middle of nature.

Coming from Brittany, I am naturally a sailor. I have a small boat that I use to sail on the Hangang, the city's main river. As there is hardly any commercial shipping on it, it is very clean and you don't have to worry if you fall in – which happens to me from time to time. The entire riverbank looks like one idyllic park where people cycle, jog, or play ball games.

The Inspiration

Seoul inspires me with its combination of nature and urban life. Wherever I am, I feel a connection – to the streets, to the water, to the mountains. The city is often very colorful: in spring, cherry blossoms bloom everywhere in white and pink. Autumn is even more beautiful when the leaves turn deep red and orange. A fantastic backdrop (not only) for a photographer like me. I'm also inspired by the urban feeling and the energy of the people, especially when I wander the streets at night with my camera and there are so many places and spaces to discover.

The Old

Large parts of the city were destroyed during the Korean War, so there is no real old town. Most of the buildings are no more than 30 years old; modern glass and concrete architecture dominates. When I find a building that was built 60 or 80 years ago, it almost feels antique. In some areas, such as near Namsan Park, traditional Hanok houses have been rebuilt. I think it's nice to see the appearance of old Korean architecture in Seoul again.

For Friends

I like to go to Wildduck & Canteen with my clients and friends. The fusion restaurant has a great atmosphere, also serves small tapas, and the wine list in particular is excellent. For a drink, I recommend a visit to my friend Coley, who runs a bar of the same name with his wife Hanna. It's the kind of place where there's no menu. Coley insists on creating cocktails especially for his guests.

I don't think I knew what really good coffee was until I lived in Seoul. The scent of freshly roasted coffee always lures me back to Coffee Hanyakbang. The cute café with retro charm is located in a narrow side street and is not easy to find. Every now and then, you can watch the owner roasting the beans by hand.

If my visitors are in the mood for culture, I take them to the headquarters of the large South Korean cosmetics manufacturer Amorepacific. It sounds strange at first, but the imposing building designed by star architect David Chipperfield houses a wonderful museum of traditional and contemporary art.

The best place to discover old Seoul is in Euljiro. I myself like to wander through the district to photograph the side streets, old quarters of workers, and the neon signs. Seongsu is another area I often explore. People say it's the Brooklyn of Seoul. It used to be home to many shoe manufacturers, but today the former factory buildings house hip cafés and stores. I am fascinated by the Cheonggyecheon watercourse, which was once overgrown by the urban jungle and later cleared again. Now it winds its way openly through the city center, in some places under massive concrete bridges – a strange sight, in the best sense.

About

Tim Franco moved from France to China in 2005 and then to Seoul in 2016. In his long-term projects, the photographer with French-Polish roots traces the human stories behind the geopolitical and social change in Asia. One of his most impressive projects is the photo book "Unperson" with portraits of North Korean defectors.