In My Hood: Exploring Vršovice, Prague

I'm a born-and-raised Prague local and have lived in Vršovice for over a decade. What I love most about the neighborhood is its duality. Depending on where you are, you're in two completely different worlds. One street over, you'll find ornate historic buildings with decorative facades. Turn the corner, and you're looking at decaying socialist-era apartment blocks. As a 3D artist, I draw a lot of inspiration from that gritty, run-down architecture. It feeds directly into my work – like in my "Pop Culture Dystopia" series, where I place rusting cartoon characters into eerie, abandoned worlds.

Morning Light on the Party Street

In the mornings, I sometimes head to Krymská Street, which is narrow, cobbled, and slightly crooked. At night, it's full of party people; in the morning, it's almost deserted. I often go jogging there. A tip for early birds (which I am definitely not) and street photographers: it's especially beautiful when the sun rises and the light hits between the buildings at an angle.

For breakfast and great coffee, my go-to is The FLAT cafe. It feels a bit like Diagon Alley from the Harry Potter books – through old wardrobes, past piles of books and quirky knick-knacks. I usually order the eggs Benedict with a flat white. It's the perfect way to start the day. After that, I often head to Grébovka Park, a hillside green space with vineyards, fountains, terraces, and a villa that looks like something out of a Wes Anderson film. The sunset views over Prague from there are stunning – since the neighborhood sits on a slope, you get a great view across the city.

Indie Films and Off-Menu Cocktails

For lunch, I love Jam and Co., a small Asian-European fusion spot near the park. And when I go out in the evening, I almost always end up at Café Bar Pilotů. It's got a bit of that classic New York bar vibe with high ceilings, dark wood, shelves full of bottles, and moody lighting. My favorite drink is a kind of Mezcal Mule – it's not on the menu, but if you ask nicely … Right next door is Kino Pilotů, a tiny indie cinema that screens documentaries, arthouse films, and festival picks. No popcorn buckets, just thoughtful cinema.

Little Berlin in Prague

When friends visit, I always take them to Petrohradská Kolektiv, a semi-hidden cultural space in what used to be a factory or school. Today, it hosts art shows, concerts, and workshops. People sometimes call it "Little Berlin" for its grungy, underground vibe.

One of my favorite hidden oases in the city is Botanica. In the front, they sell plants; out back, there's an old coffee truck tucked into a leafy courtyard. In the summer, I sit there with an espresso tonic under the canopy. In the winter, I warm up with a flat white between hanging chairs and fairy lights. If I want to show someone what I truly love about Vršovice – this is the place.

About

Filip Hodas is a 3D artist who was born and raised in Prague. He lives and works in Vršovice, where he draws inspiration from decaying architecture and pop culture. He started out designing posters for DJ events and is now internationally recognized for his dystopian digital worlds. When he's not creating art, he's on the hunt for good coffee.