In My Hood: Out and About on Song Wat Road, Bangkok

Song Wat Road is already the most talked-about street in Bangkok, but I have a feeling this is just the beginning. New establishments are opening along this 600-meter stretch of the road every month. Hip cafés, bars, and restaurants now blend naturally with centuries-old family businesses, such as spice shops and noodle stands. 

To understand what makes Song Wat so special, it's important to look back at its history. Running parallel to the Chao Phraya River and Yaowarat (Chinatown), the street was once an important trading center for Bangkok's Chinese community. The old shophouses still reflect a blend of Thai, Chinese, and Western influences, reminding us that, over 130 years ago, this street was one of the city's busiest shopping destinations. Today, the area's timeless charm meets the energy of a new generation, making Song Wat lively and full of stories. 

Great Restaurants and Galleries in Song Wat 

When I'm in the mood for some really good Thai food, I head to e-ga LAB. It was one of the first restaurants to usher in the beginning of the new Song Wat era about four years ago. The dishes are based on recipes from five different regions of Thailand, including some that are difficult to find nowadays. 

SongViet serves fantastic Vietnamese food. Their pho is incredibly delicious. They also have great coffee. It's the perfect place to relax and people-watch.

If you're looking for a quick bite to eat, Bad Poutine is a small, casual snack bar that serves poutine – a Canadian fast food dish consisting of french fries, cheese, and gravy, to go. Incidentally, Bukowski & Co., a creative cocktail bar, is tucked away on the second floor above Bad Poutine. The atmosphere is relaxed, as if you were meeting in the living room of an art-loving friend. 

A Home for Young Thai Art

Art lovers will want to visit two important places: TARS Unlimited, a contemporary art gallery focusing on emerging Thai and Southeast Asian artists. It is one of the most important venues in the local art scene, providing young artists with a space to experiment and display their work. PLAY Art House has an ever-changing selection of exciting new Thai art. 

Song Wat: Where to Go Shopping 

The most wonderful chaos awaits you on the Road of Cinnamon, which is part old Chinese grocery store and part curiosity cabinet. The shelves are filled with tastefully selected handicrafts from across Thailand, including chopsticks, toys, jewelry, and antique Thai dolls. 

Sit in Soi is a combination shop and café. The coffee, cocktails, and mocktails are all excellent, and the music is very relaxing. Vintage clothing and accessories, including secondhand T-shirts and rare designer pieces, await new owners. 

RESS Studio is one of the city's most avant-garde boutiques. The space itself resembles an art gallery. It is calm, precise, and discreetly confident. Fashion is an art form, too. 

Of course, the trend of vinyl bars – restaurants that play records instead of just playlists – arrived early in Bangkok as well. At Longlai, not only is the sound just right, but the food is also unbeatably good. Young guest chefs take turns in the kitchen, each bringing their own style to the table. The place is quickly becoming a new meeting place for DJs and musicians. 

For a fun evening, I recommend the Mischa Cheap, of course. I offer inexpensive drinks and simple cocktails here, and since most of my regulars are film students, there are lots of lively discussions about cinema, music, and politics. 

About

Note Pongsuang was born in Bangkok and studied graphic design. He writes screenplays, curates art events, directs music videos and commercials, and organizes punk rock parties called "Dudesweet." He also owns the bar Mischa Cheap – formerly known as The National Bar – on Song Wat Road.