Art-filled modern living room in Milan with colorful furnishings and multiple abstract paintings on the walls

In My Hood: Out and About in Città Studi, Milan

Interior designer Hannes Peer now lives where he once studied: in Milan's university district, Città Studi. The South Tyrolean native reveals what makes this neighborhood a hidden gem for art lovers, architecture enthusiasts, and anyone who appreciates the good life

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4 min read
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Milan is, in essence, a provincial city – but I mean that in the best way! Of course, it's also a fashion and architecture capital, but that's exactly what draws so many people like me, who originally come from the provinces.

Milan has a tough exterior: even the palazzi feel somewhat rough and brutalist, with lots of granite, concrete, or Ceppo di Gré, a local natural stone that almost resembles cement. But peek behind the doors, and Milan's inner beauty is revealed: grand entrances ranging from art deco to 1980s style. This is especially true in the area where I live with my husband – Città Studi, the university district. It's home to an incredible catalog of architecture, including buildings designed by Osvaldo Borsani, Vittoriano Viganò, or Gio Ponti. One of my favorite buildings in all of Milan, though located outside Città Studi, is Ponti's San Francesco d'Assisi al Fopponino, with its stunning ceramic facade.

Hannes Peer wearing a dark blue sweater, seated on steps
Interior designer Hannes Peer: "Milan is, in essence, a provincial city – but I mean that in the best way." (© Alexander D. Hiet; header image © Alberto Lagomaggiore)
Frontal view of the church San Francesco d’Assisi al Fopponino in Milan
A modern masterpiece: architect Gio Ponti had the facade of the church of San Francesco d'Assisi al Fopponino completely covered with ceramic tiles (© Imago)
Modern interior of the bakery Signor Lievito in Milan
Peer and his team designed the interior of the Signor Lievito café (© Helenio Barbetta)

Renowned Galleries and a Packed House Museum in Città Studi

One of our neighbors is the famous art dealer Massimo De Carlo. His Milan gallery is absolutely worth a visit and is housed in the original Casa Corbellini-Wassermann, designed by Piero Portaluppi. De Carlo is a true brontolone – a grumbler with wit – who loves to passionately complain about everything from politics to Milan's city planning. I often run into him on Saturday mornings at Allangolare, a beautiful little bistro that I highly recommend.

Another great place to see art in the neighborhood is Camera Doppia, an exhibition space founded by my friend Giovanni De Francesco, an artist.

Just outside Città Studi you'll find a real gem: the Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano. In the mid-20th century, the Boschi Di Stefano family supported emerging artists who were unknown at the time – some of whom even lived in the house. Names like Yves Klein and Lucio Fontana were among them. Today, their works fill the intimate museum from floor to ceiling. In one 160-square-foot room alone, you’ll find 21 paintings by Lucio Fontana – it's something you have to see for yourself!

Where Miuccia Prada Likes to Dine in Milan

For a memorable dinner, I love the creative cuisine at Ristorante Manna. Also fantastic is Tipografia Alimentare, where the food and drink selections are both truly exceptional, especially the natural wines. If you're in the mood for something other than Italian, head to Mao Hunan. The Chinese food is delicious, but be warned: you'll need a strong stomach – almost everything is flavored with spicy Sichuan pepper.

Speaking of food, Trattoria Masuelli is technically in Porta Romana, the district where I work and where my studio is based. But I consider it a true insider tip. Even Miuccia Prada and her husband love dining there, enjoying the honest Lombard-Piedmontese cuisine. Real Milanese usually don't eat at fancy restaurants – they prefer a down-to-earth trattoria. It's not snobbery – it's self-love!

I also have my morning caffè in Porta Romana. At Signor Lievito, the café run by my friend Natalia Nikitina (everyone calls her Niki), Scandinavian and Italian baking traditions blend beautifully. My team and I even designed the interior ourselves.

About

The desire to become an interior architect took Hannes Peer from a small village on South Tyrol's Wine Road to the Polytechnic University of Milan. After graduating, he worked with Zvi Hecker in Berlin and Rem Koolhaas in Rotterdam. In 2009, he opened his own multidisciplinary design studio in Milan.

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