In My Hood: Out and About in Apgujeong, Seoul

The Han River divides Seoul into a somewhat more traditional north and a modern south. My workshop and jewelry gallery, Gallery O, is located south of the riverbank in Apgujeong, an affluent neighborhood in the famous Gangnam district. Apgujeong is known for its luxurious apartment complexes and the exclusive shopping street Apgujeong Rodeo Street with its many high-end boutiques. The name itself is reminiscent of its famous counterpart in Beverly Hills: Rodeo Drive.

Apgujeong Feels Like a Time Capsule

Even 20 years ago, Apgujeong was the place to be, as it was almost the only spot where you could get your hands on European luxury fashion. The neighborhood sometimes feels like a time capsule and it brings back fond memories for many of my customers. They come into my store and tell me that they haven't been here for years, but how nice it is that nothing has really changed.

In my gallery, I exhibit modern, conceptual jewelry by international artists to show South Koreans how contemporary jewelry is interpreted in the rest of the world. The prices range from 20 euros to, well, open-ended. I want everyone to find what they are looking for and I enjoy introducing people to the world of jewelry.

Apgujeong is considered one of the most expensive neighborhoods in the country. That's why I appreciate places that have retained a certain down-to-earthness in the middle of all the abundance – such as restaurants like H450, which serves Italian cuisine. I particularly recommend the steak salad and its sandwiches – and all the pasta dishes, of course. Pel's Pizza serves excellent pizza. Many people order takeout, so it's nice and quiet and you can enjoy yours in peace in the restaurant. If you want to try traditional Korean dishes accompanied by rice wine, you are well advised to go to the Mukjeon restaurant or to Wolsunne, where the food is not only good but also cheap.

Cafés, Art, and Dining Out in a Casual Atmosphere

Coffee Tree is a café that I love to visit. Many mothers sit there in the morning and drink a cappuccino after having dropped off their children at the nearby kindergartens or schools. Also nearby, there's Sinsa Market, which is located in the same building complex as my gallery. You can buy everything imaginable here, from fish to fruit and vegetables to Japanese cookies, and also eat in a casual atmosphere in the middle of the luxury district – for example tteokbokki, cylindrical rice cakes swimming in gochujang, a fiery red Korean chili paste.

Dosan Park is a small green oasis in the district, named after the Korean independence activist Ahn Chang Ho, artist name Dosan. Near the park, I find inspiration in the White Cube Seoul art gallery. In an area of 300 square meters, changing exhibitions of international artists are shown. The same building also houses the private Horim Museum, where visitors can admire modern art from Korea as well as traditional handicrafts such as Buncheong, Korean stoneware, and porcelain.

About

The jewelry artist and gallery owner Miwha Oh, born in Göttingen, Germany, and raised in South Korea, studied in the USA at Parsons School of Design and at Cranbrook Academy of Art; Oh also has a certificate in museum studies from Harvard University. In 2001, she opened Gallery O in Seoul.