Essentials: Zurich

Dining Beneath Originals

A seat at Kronenhalle gets you more than a good meal. Between Zürcher Geschnetzeltes and chocolate mousse, you're surrounded by artworks that would normally be behind glass. The walls are adorned with pieces by Chagall, Miró, Picasso, and Giovanni and Diego Giacometti. Legendary hostess Hulda Zumsteg knew many of these artists personally – and turned the restaurant into the living room of Zurich's bohemian scene.

Will This Summer Be a Scorcher?

In Zurich, that’s up to the Böögg. During the Sechseläuten spring festival, a giant snowman made of burlap, wood wool, and cardboard is set on fire – complete with plenty of built-in fireworks. The faster his head explodes, the better the summer's supposed to be. The name "Böögg" comes from the word for bogeyman – but today, he's more of a crowd-pleaser than a fright.

Zurich Ticks by This Clock

The clock tower of St. Peter Church has the largest church clock face in Europe, measuring 8.7 meters across – and for centuries, it was the city's official timekeeper. All public clocks had to follow its lead. The minute hand stretches an impressive 5.5 meters and weighs 94 kilos; the hour hand comes in just under five meters and 74 kilos. Today, the clock runs digitally, but the distinct "jerk" of the hand moving 45 centimeters each minute remains unmistakable.

Queer Antiquity by the Lake

Strolling along Lake Zurich, you'll meet Ganymede – young, nude, and accompanied by Zeus in the form of an eagle. The bronze sculpture was installed in 1952, a bold move at the time. The myth is one of antiquity's most famous homoerotic tales: Zeus was so taken with Ganymede that he brought him to Olympus and made him cupbearer to the gods. Today, this unlikely bronze duo is part of the city's queer history.

When Muesli Is More Than Breakfast

For Zurich physician Max Bircher-Benner, it definitely was. Originally created as a gentle meal for patients, what became known as "Bircher muesli" was part of a radical health philosophy centered on raw food, fresh air, and movement. It has since become a global breakfast staple served in trendy cafés as well as student kitchens.